Doctors' Commentary: Is it true that chemical peels are "ineffective"? An easy-to-understand explanation

I've had chemical peels, but they don't seem to work."
I'd love to get a chemical peel, but social media says it won't work..."

Do you have any of these questions or concerns?

Hello, I am a doctor at Smart Skin Clinic, a cosmetic dermatology clinic.

In this article, we will explain why chemical peels are said to be "ineffective" from a cosmetic dermatologist's professional standpoint in an easy-to-understand manner and solve your problems.

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Conclusion: Chemical peels are "effective.

In conclusion, chemical peels areIt works.".

It is mainly effective for problems such as acne, acne scars (redness and dullness), fine lines and wrinkles, and blemishes.

These are all caused by a disorder (delay) in the turnover process, in which old skin is reborn into new skin. Chemical peeling has the effect of promoting turnover and resolving the above concerns.

Thus, why is it that chemical peels are often said to be ineffective despite their effectiveness?

Five reasons why chemical peels are "ineffective".

1) Chemical peelings are not suitable for your problems and your skin condition.

Chemical peels are not a panacea and may have limited effectiveness depending on your concerns and skin condition. Chemical peels may not be appropriate in the following cases

Deep acne scars (crater-like scars):
Because chemical peels act only on the epidermis, they have limited effect on cratering acne scars that reach the dermal layer. In such cases, other treatments, such as laser therapy, may be more appropriate.

Deep blotches:
If the melanin causing the blemish has reached the dermal layer, it may not be completely removed by chemical peels. For such deep blotches, light therapy such as IPL may be appropriate.

If the skin is extremely sensitive:
Because chemical peels are a harsh treatment for the skin, they may not be suitable for those who have extremely sensitive skin to begin with. For such individuals, basic care to improve the skin condition should be taken first before considering chemical peels.

Certain skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis:
If you have certain skin conditions, such as atopic dermatitis, chemical peels may aggravate your condition. In such cases, diagnosis and appropriate treatment by a dermatologist is necessary.

As such, there are cases where chemical peels are not appropriate, so it is important to be diagnosed by a dermatologist in advance and choose a treatment that is appropriate for your skin condition and concerns.

(2) Insufficient number of treatments

Chemical peels improve skin problems by removing a portion of the epidermis. However, many people do not experience results after only one peel if the original epidermis is thick or if their concerns are deep within the epidermis.

So, in general, how often should they be taken and how often?

Normally, it takes about 4 weeks for the peeled epidermis to regenerate. By timing the chemical peeling with the regeneration of the epidermis, the effects can be maximized.

Therefore, as a general guideline, we recommend that you receive about 5 sessions every 2 to 4 weeks.

(iii) Failure to properly implement aftercare after treatment.

After a chemical peel, the epidermis has been removed and the skin is vulnerable to damage.

Therefore, if sufficient UV protection and moisturizing are not applied after chemical peels, the damage will outweigh the effects of the chemical peels, and one may feel that the chemical peels are not effective.

(4) Receiving chemical peels at esthetic clinics.

In general, the higher the concentration of the chemical used in chemical peels, the greater the amount of epidermis removed. However, chemical peels at esthetic clinics currently only use extremely dilute agents, so only a small amount of the epidermis can be peeled off, making it difficult to feel the effects of the peel.

In addition, when performed at esthetic clinics, it is often done by staff with no medical knowledge.

As a result, it is often impossible to take into account the appropriate frequency and duration of the procedure, to respond to problems during the procedure, or to provide aftercare, which can be problematic from a safety standpoint.

Chemical peeling is considered a medical procedure and should be performed under the supervision of a dermatologist or a physician with equivalent skills and knowledge.

For safety and effectiveness, it is recommended that chemical peels be performed at a medical institution.

(5) Self-performed chemical peels and not done in a correct manner.

The same is true for self-doing as for esthetics.

Self-performed chemical peels may also be less concentrated than the available agents and may not be as effective.

Furthermore, compared to the case performed at a clinic, the frequency and duration of the procedure cannot be properly managed, which may reduce the effectiveness of the procedure. Failure to properly manage these factors can damage the skin and may have the opposite effect.

People for whom chemical peels are suitable are

We will now present four types of people for whom chemical peels are effective (symptoms/problems) and explain why each is effective, with an explanation of the mechanism of the symptoms/problems.

(1) People who are concerned about acne and acne scars (mild)

Let us begin with the mechanism of acne development.

When turnover is disrupted due to aging or stress, the stratum corneum of the epidermis becomes thickened, and pores become clogged with comedos. Acne is the result of inflammation caused by the growth of acne bacillus, a common bacterium of the skin that feeds on sebum, in these comedones.

Chemical peels are effective for acne because they exfoliate the epidermis (including the stratum corneum), improve the clogging of pores, and promote the discharge of sebum.

Next, let us discuss acne scars (mild).

To begin with, acne scars (mild) are often dull, and this is due to the deposition of a pigment called melanin in the epidermis. When acne is inflamed, melanocytes (melanin-producing cells) overproduce melanin in the epidermis. These are not expelled from the epidermis and are deposited, leading to dull acne scars.

Chemical peels promote the exfoliation and expulsion of melanin pigment-containing cells in the epidermis and are effective in treating dullness, which is a mild acne scar.

We also recommend that those who are concerned about their acne and find it difficult to heal consider treatment with "isotretinoin". This is a treatment with high medical evidence, with data showing a cure rate of over 951 TP3T for acne.

(2) People who are concerned about blotches

The following is an explanation of the mechanism of blotchiness.

Most blotches are caused by the overproduction and deposition of melanin pigment in the epidermis by melanocytes.

Normally, melanin is found in the epidermis and serves to protect skin cells from ultraviolet rays. However, prolonged exposure to ultraviolet rays or strong UV rays causes melanocytes to overproduce melanin. In addition, if the turnover cycle is disrupted due to aging, UV rays, or increased stress, the accumulated melanin pigment is not removed for a long period of time. This accumulation of melanin in the epidermis causes blotches.

Chemical peels are effective for blemishes by promoting turnover and the elimination of melanin pigment deposited on the epidermis.

(iii) People who are concerned about open pores

Pore opening is also explained in terms of its mechanism of occurrence.

The causes of open pores can be classified into three categories: (1) by hair, (2) by keratin (≒plaque), and (3) by sebum. Chemical peeling is mainly effective for those caused by keratin.

Corn is the shedding of the stratum corneum, a part of the epidermis, but if turnover is disrupted, the excess keratin accumulates and falls into the pores, causing them to appear open.

Chemical peels promote turnover, which prevents keratin from falling into the pores, thus reducing the appearance of pores.

In addition, "isotretinoin" treatment has the ability to reduce sebum and can be effective in improving pore size. If you are interested, please also see the following posts

(4) People who are concerned about fine lines and wrinkles

The mechanism of fine wrinkle development will also be briefly explained.

Fine lines and wrinkles are one of the causes of the decrease in collagen and elastin, which are involved in the elasticity of the skin. Collagen and elastin are proteins that maintain skin elasticity and firmness, and they decrease with age. As these decrease, the skin loses elasticity and firmness, resulting in fine lines and wrinkles.

Chemical peels stimulate cells called fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen and elastin), which promote the production of collagen and elastin in the skin and restore skin elasticity.

The result is a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

What is the best treatment for acne scars (craters)?

As mentioned earlier, chemical peels act only on the epidermis and have limited effect on cratering acne scars that reach the dermis layer. JUVELUX injections are suitable for such acne scars.

(1) Jubeluk injection

JUVELUX injections are a combination of non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid and polylactic acid (PDLLA: Poly-DL-lactic acid), a type of injectable drug called a skin booster. After injection, it is slowly absorbed into the body over a period of one to two years, during which time it stimulates fibroblasts to naturally increase collagen and elastin, and a lasting effect can be expected.

Since it is made from lactic acid, which is also present in the human body, it is highly safe and less likely to cause allergies. It is also a highly safe formulation approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Korea Food and Drug Administration (KFDA).

Compared to the same category of polylactic acid products, such as Sculptra and MacComb, Jubeluk is made so that the particles are rounded in shape, which virtually eliminates the risk of subcutaneous lumps. It is used abundantly in Korea, and there are many research papers on its efficacy and safety.

We specialize in JUVELUX injections and have received high satisfaction from many of our patients. In addition, our JUVELUX injections are reasonably priced and can be received with peace of mind.

If you suffer from cratering acne scars, we recommend that you try JUVELUX injections. We offer the best treatment plan for each individual patient.

(2) JUVELUX Aqueous Light Injection

JUVELUX Suikoh Injection refers to a procedure in which a preparation called "JUVELUX" is injected with a machine called "Suikoh Injection". Suikoh Injection is a syringe with nine ultra-fine needles that injects the drug quickly while suctioning the skin, allowing the drug to be injected evenly into the dermal layer while minimizing pain.

The following are some of the advantages of aquatic light injections:

  • Uniform depth and injection volume.
  • Minimal internal bleeding.
  • Less skin indentation after injection
  • Minimal downtime

The depth of the needle to be injected, the time spent in the skin, and the suction pressure can be optimally set according to the purpose, and a variety of agents can be selected. JUVELUX can be injected with water-light injections for more effective and safer treatment.

We also offer JUVELUX water light injections. Compared to JUVELUX injections, the drug can be injected more evenly, resulting in more natural-looking results. In addition, downtime is minimal, allowing patients to return to their daily activities immediately after treatment.

For those seeking to improve the texture of their skin as well as improve the appearance of crater-like acne scars, we recommend JUVELUX hydro-glow injections. We offer the best treatment plan for each patient according to their individual concerns and budget.

We offer the best treatments for your concerns, including chemical peels, JUVELUX injections, and JUVELUX hydrophotonic injections. If you are suffering from skin problems, please contact our clinic for a consultation. Our experienced doctors will propose the best treatment plan for each individual customer.

For appointments or more information, please visit our website or call us. We look forward to seeing you at our clinic.

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